DIAMONDS: The Absolute Least You Should Know
Buying a diamond can be hard work. Comparing apples to apples is nearly impossible – even for trained professionals. But that doesn’t mean it’s impossible.
First, you need a reputable jeweler who respects your budget and offers you stones certified by the U.S.-based GIA (not overseas), AGS and EGL. Second, understand the basics: The Four Cs (Cut, Clarity, Carat and Color).
But remember: A diamond’s value is determined using all of the 4 Cs, not just carat weight. That said, here’s a quick 4 Cs primer.
COLOR = LACK OF COLOR
The diamond color evaluation of most gem-quality diamonds is based on the absence of color. A chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond has no hue, like a drop of pure water, and consequently, a higher value. GIA’s D-to-Z diamond color-grading system measures the degree of colorlessness by comparing a stone under controlled lighting and precise viewing conditions to masterstones of established color value. GIA’s diamond D-to-Z color-grading scale is the industry’s most widely accepted grading system. The scale begins with the letter D, representing colorless, and continues, with increasing presence of color, to the letter Z. Many of these color distinctions are so subtle that they are invisible to the untrained eye. But they make a big difference in diamond quality and price.
CLARITY: MEANS THERE ARE NO INCLUSIONS OR BLEMISHES
Natural diamonds are the result of carbon exposed to tremendous heat and pressure deep in the earth. This process can result in a variety of internal characteristics called “inclusions” and external characteristics called “blemishes.”
Evaluating diamond clarity involves determining the number, size, relief, nature, and position of these characteristics, as well as how these affect the overall appearance of the stone. While no diamond is perfectly pure, the closer it comes, the higher its value. The GIA Diamond Clarity Scale has six categories, some of which are divided, for a total of 11 specific grades. They are:
Flawless (FL): No inclusions and no blemishes visible under 10x magnification
Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2): Inclusions so slight they are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification
Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2):Inclusions are observed with effort under 10x magnification, but can be characterized as minor
Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2):Inclusions are noticeable under 10x magnification
Included (I1, I2, and I3):Inclusions are obvious under 10x magnification which may affect transparency and brilliance. Many inclusions and blemishes are too tiny to be seen by anyone other than a trained diamond grader. To the naked eye, a VS1 and an SI2 diamond may look exactly the same, but these diamonds are quite different in terms of overall quality. This is why expert and accurate assessment of diamond clarity is extremely important.
CUT: UNLEASHES LIGHT
Diamonds are renowned for their ability to transmit light and sparkle so intensely. We often think of a diamond’s cut as shape (round, emerald, pear), but a diamond’s cut grade is really about how well a diamond’s facets interact with light.
Precise artistry and workmanship are required to fashion a stone so its proportions, symmetry, and polish deliver the magnificent return of light only possible in a diamond. A diamond’s cut is crucial to the stone’s final beauty and value. And of all the diamond 4Cs, it is the most complex and technically difficult to analyze.
To determine the cut grade of the standard round brilliant diamond – the shape that dominates the majority of diamond jewelry – GIA calculates the proportions of those facets that influence the diamond’s face-up appearance. These proportions allow GIA to evaluate how successfully a diamond interacts with light to create desirable visual effects such as:
Brightness: Internal and external white light reflected from a diamond
Fire: The scattering of white light into all the colors of the rainbow
Scintillation: The amount of sparkle a diamond produces, and the pattern of light and dark areas caused by reflections within the diamond.
GIA’s diamond cut grade also takes into account the design and craftsmanship of the diamond, including its weight relative to its diameter, its girdle thickness (which affects its durability), the symmetry of its facet arrangement, and the quality of polish on those facets. The GIA Diamond Cut Scale for standard round brilliant diamonds in the D-to-Z diamond color range contains 5 grades ranging from Excellent to Poor.
CARAT: WEIGHT, NOT SIZE
Diamond carat weight is the measurement of how much a diamond weighs. A metric “carat” is defined as 200 milligrams. Each carat can be subdivided into 100 “points.” This allows very precise measurements to the hundredth decimal place.
A jeweler may describe the weight of a diamond below one carat by its “points” alone. For instance, the jeweler may refer to a diamond that weighs 0.25 carats as a “twenty-five pointer.”
Diamond weights greater than one carat are expressed in carats and decimals. A 1.08 carat stone would be described as “one-point-oh-eight carats.”
All else being equal, diamond price increases with diamond carat weight, because larger diamonds are more rare and more desirable. But two diamonds of equal carat weight can have very different values (and prices) depending on three other factors of the diamond 4Cs: Clarity, Color, and Cut.
It’s important to remember that a diamond’s value is determined using all of the 4Cs, not just carat weight.
